The Middle Kingdom is reincarnated in the middle of Gillman Village, taking the form of Grand Peony Court. The restaurant, serving Cantonese cuisine, is set in a former British military barrack. The latter has undergone quite a transformation from a colonial setting to one befitting Eastern fashion and tastes.

• The Vibe
  From the outside, Grand Peony Court looks like a typical black-and-white colonial bungalow: neat, spacious and surrounded by the lush green tropics. A balcony at the entrance of the restaurant accords diners privacy and a quiet corner to admire the lush surroundings. The inside of Grand Peony Court, however, has very little traces of colonialism. It is distinctly Chinese, with paintings, calligraphy, streamers and carved metal lamps hanging from the ceiling - an ideal time capsule that takes you back to ancient Chinese civilisation.

• The Food
  Grand Peony's menu is extensive, with soups, starters, appetizers and everything else that a usual course of Cantonese dinner offers. There is an ala carte section and a set meal section in the menu. The wide variety comprises mainly seafood dishes, but is liberally peppered with a selection of red meat, poultry, vegetables and the necessary staples of rice and noodles.

  While the dishes at Grand Peony are typically Cantonese, the restaurant also serves Chinese fare with a twist. Try the Crispy Aromatic Duck (S$30), a variation of the Peking Duck that is common in Chinese cuisine. Grand Peony's rendition, however, is far from common. Seasoned with special herbs and deep-fried, this duck is meaty and not oily. Served with the condiments which accompanies Peking Duck but cooked in a similar style to that of a Duck Confit; this is one fusion dish which will tantalize your senses.

  The weekend Dim Sum buffet is a favourite of Grand Peony's regular diners. The Crispy Prawn Puff with Salad (S$3.20) is succulent, juicy and tasty. This crispy prawn puff is wrapped with a special skin that complements the freshness of the prawn. If you prefer something that is steamed rather than fried, opt for the Fresh Shrimp Dumplings (S$3.60). Another of Grand Peony signature prawn dish is the Fried Prawns with Salted Egg Yolk (S$20). Coated with flour and salted egg yolk, it has a crispy and crunchy outer layer. The prawns were fresh, making the dish savoury but a little bland. It could definitely use a little more salted egg yolk.

  For some carbohydrates, try the Braised Lobster Noodles with Spring Onion & Ginger (S$48), another of the chef's recommendations. The lobster itself being fresh and firm, adds flavour to the noodles, which would otherwise be too plain. Served in a generous portion, this dish substantially provides the much-needed carbohydrates to your Cantonese meal.

• The Service
  The service staff is always courteous, friendly and pleasant, but empty plates are sometimes left on the table for undesirably long periods.

The SD Food Advisor's take on Grand Peony Court
It is a quiet, subdued place - an ideal respite from the hustle and bustle of city life. All in all, the combination of the food and the ambience makes dining at Grand Peony Court an interesting dining experience. There is a peculiar sense of honesty about the place – what you see is what you get. This makes Grand Peony Court unpretentious, a rare quality in restaurants these days.